Tips for setting up your new HDTV

Not happy with the picture on your new HDTV? Don't panic—maybe you're just missing the right cables, or your video settings need some tweaks. Help is here.

Got the right cables?
Nothing pains me more than checking out a friend's gorgeous new HDTV, only to see that they've connected it to the cable box with composite or S-Video cables—neither of which supports HD.

For our purposes, only two kinds of video cables will deliver HD: HDMI, which has thin, rectangular connectors at each end, and component, a bundle of three RCA cables. There's also the DVI inputs on older HDTVs, but let's leave that aside for now. (For more on the various kinds of video inputs, including HDMI and component, check out my Beginner's Guide to Video Connections).

So, which kind should you get: HDMI or component? Well, HDMI delivers a pure digital HD signal to your HDTV, whereas component is still stuck in the world of analog (although my older-model Xbox 360 looks superb over component, if you ask me.) So go with HDMI first, if your various boxes support it; otherwise, get component cables.

Finally, please—unless you're stringing 30 yards+ of cable in your house, you DON'T need to spend up $100 for an HDMI cable, no matter what the clerks at the store tell you (same goes for component). About $10 for a six-foot HDMI or component cable is more like it. Check out these shopping tips (and these too) before you go shopping.

Get an HD box from your cable/satellite carrier
No HDMI or component outputs on your cable/satellite set-top box? You might still be using a standard-def receiver, in which case you'll have to order an HD box from your carrier. If you're a satellite subscriber, you may need a new dish, too. (Click here for more details.)

Also, keep in mind that most carriers have various HD pricing tiers; typically, local HD stations are free, but you may have to pay extra for Discovery HD, HDNet, and the like. For premium networks such as HBO and Showtime, you should get the respective HD feeds free with your subscription.

Check your video settings
Another familiar tale: Friends with new HDTVs who hooked up everything just right, using HDMI cables and everything, but were still stuck watching in SD.

Why? Because they didn't have the right video settings on their cable box (or DVR, or gaming console ... take your pick).

Here's what you do: Find up the Settings menu on your (fill in the blank) and look for "video" or "display" preferences, and make sure they're set to 720p, 1080i, or 1080p (if you have a 1080p-capable HDTV).

Watch the right channel
If you're an HD beginner, here's another tip: Local stations and cable networks have separate channels for their standard-definition and HD feeds. Here in New York, the standard-def version of NBC is on channel 4; for NBC HD, it's channel 704. Check your programming guide to see where the HD channels are in your area (they're usually all clumped together in, say, the 700's or something).

Calibrate your set
"Out-of-the-box" video settings for most HDTVs are usually atrocious, producing a picture that looks great in a showroom but awful in your den.

The quick fix? Change your video input presets from "Sports" or "Vivid" to "Standard" (for your cable/satellite/DVR or gaming console) or "Cinema" (for your DVD/Blu-ray player). Both the "Sports" and "Vivid" presets are way too bright and harsh (thanks to artificial edge enhancement), and the "Sports" setting often "pushes" the color green to make grass playing fields look more eye-popping.

If you're feeling more ambitious, try a calibration DVD; I swear by Bob Kane's "Digital Video Essentials" (DVD and Blu-ray versions are available, each for less than $20 online). The instructions and test patterns on the disc will help you correctly tweak the Brightness, Contrast (or Picture), Sharpness, Color, and Tint settings for each of your video inputs (and you should calibrate your DVD, Blu-ray, and gaming consoles separately). You can't use the DVE disc for calibrating your cable/satellite/OTA HD input, but at least you can use the calibrated settings from your other inputs as a starting point.

Finally, you can always hire an expert, but be careful—as Chris has blogged about in the past, some services are better than others (and indeed, a few are out-and-out ripoffs. My suggestion: Only hire an ISF-certified home installer to calibrate your TV—and be prepared to cough up a couple hundred in the process.