Fri Jun 9, 2006 4:51PM EDT
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Maybe you want to archive tape recordings of your grandfather's poetry, or burn a CD of an old record album, or you want to listen to a Grateful Dead bootleg on your MP3 player.
Doesn't matter why, but you want to digitize a cassette or record. Digitizing is the process of taking an analog signal (a song on cassette or LP) and turning it into a computer file. It sounds complicated, but with a little time and money, it can be done.
Speaking of time and money
If you want to skip the do-it-yourself process, there are services and local freelancers who can do this for you. Digitizing charges start at $10 a tape and can go as high as $50-$100 per cassette or LP. Using a service like Craigslist.org you can search for "digitize cassette tapes" to find someone local. You can also use online services like BuiltByMom.com or Cassettes2cds.com.
One tip: If you send your tapes or records off to be digitized, make a tape copy if you can. God forbid your only copies get lost in the mail or the company goes out of business.
Now back to doing it yourself.
What you'll need:
Audio Inputs on your computer
Almost all computers come with some sort of a mini-jack audio input. This should be near one of the headphone or speaker jacks. It may say "line-in" or have some sort of symbol that implies audio coming in. Most likely you will be down on all fours with a flashlight in your mouth trying to figure out which jack is the line-in. It will probably come down to trial and error once you get everything else hooked up. I've been there my friend, I've been there.
Audio Outputs from Your Player
Your cassette or record player will probably have a line-out or headphone jack you can use to export music. Line-out is optimal, headphone jack is fine.
Preamp
If you are converting records to digital files, you will want to use a preamp. The short explanation is that it boosts the audio levels to something worth listening to. Preamps are not too expensive ($30) and you can find them online easily. AudioReplay.net is one site that sells a decent preamp for $29.
Cables
Once you figure out what your input and output options are, you need to get a cable to connect the two. You can order these cables online, but if you are the least bit unsure about your connection, head down to your local Radio Shack or electronics store. I'm prone to taking digital pictures of my inputs or taking the device itself down to the store; less margin for error.
Software
In order to actually take the signal from your cassette or LP and translate it into a computer file, you need a piece of software to do the job. Before you spend any money, check to see if your computer came bundled with any software that can record audio. My PC came with a copy of Windows Movie Maker. It does the trick, and I didn't have to spend any extra money. Many Macs come with Garage Band and iMovie which can also import audio.
You can also buy specialized audio software or download free software online. I like Audacity from Sound Forge.
Recording
Once you have all the components, it's pretty straightforward. You connect the tape or record/preamp to the audio input (line-in) on your computer. Open the audio or recording software on your computer. Select the source (line-in), then hit record. Hit play on the tape player or drop the needle on the record player.
You can save your recorded audio as MP3, WAV, or AIFF files depending on how you will be using them. To record onto CD, save them as WAV or AIFF. For portable music players, save them as MP3s.
Best of luck, and may your musical memories be digitally preserved forever.
Join in the discussion. Here you'll see the comments in the order they were posted.
papaikuhaole, Having taken many pictures for work of the back of computer equipment, let me give you some useful tips. Use a digital camera. Hold the camera behind the computer (pointed at the computer) and click. Look at your viewfinder and see if you got what you wanted. If not, try again. Usually, I was able to get the picture I wanted in no more than three attempts by paying attention to what I needed to modify. I even had one computer that nothing I could do would allow my eyes to see anywhere near the back of the computer, but a long arm and a click of a button gave me the image I needed. Oh, and make sure to use your flash. :)
Good information, however if you have the right portable player (MP3) you can copy straight into your player, then edit on your pc as needed. Creative labs Zen Nano is what i have and it works pretty good. The other thing I must mention is to watch the volume controls and do a test run first.
Hello, thanks for the article. My question is how do I import the my tapes using Windows Movie Maker?? I have this software and was wondering how to import through there. Thank you.
There is an easy way to get albums to mp3 with only a modest investment. A company called ION has a USB turntable. It is usually about $130. If your using a Mac, it is really plug and play, and with Windows there is some drivers to be installed. The turntable comes with a program called Audacity. It is a free program, but it is one of the easiest to use. And in no time albums can be turned into mp3s. A very good program to clean up the clicks and pops is Soundsoap from Bias. This program costs $100, but is very much worth it. Audacity has a noise reduction function, but it is not effective and leads to all sorts of feedback and really nasty noise.
Try INport by xitel. I see it on sale now and then for about 50.00 @ Office Depot. Easy hook-up and use but read the instructions slowly. What impressed me about this program was the bit rate conversion of 1400+ bps. in the wav. format. When I did a AAC conversion for cd-burning it retained the high quality that I had hoped. The presence out of low wattage pc-speakers were A-1 all the way.My rating *****.
You have definitely improved upon making life better to live than ever before. Memories are for ever, hence you contributing in no small measure towards making such an evergreen one.
Thanks I have been looking for this information for the longest
To clean up digitized music you have two great choices, slthough they do cost you $$. Howevr if you have a big collection, as I did, it is worth it. Sound Forge, but needs add-ins DartPro 24, not as easy to use as Sound Forge but comes with deHissing, deClicking and noise cancellation.
Be aware that records made before stereo was introduced by the big companies, c. 1958, are different in ways that affect your copying results. Mono LPs made after this date should be ok. The groove is twice as wide, 1 mil,rather than half-mil. A larger size stylus gives better results. That goes for earlier 45s as well as LPs. Records issued in mono before stereo was introduced play back when the stylus travels from side to side- laterally. The stereo cartridge, which we all use, allows the stylus to move up and down as well- vertically. The sound vertical motion generates when playing back these earlier records is noise only. The computer cannot remove this noise. A preamp which includes a circuit to do this is one solution. Be sure not to get one that, when you hit mono, only mixes the left and right channels. Another is to use a cartridge dedicated to mono record playback only. The vertical is cancelled by shorting out the verical signal with a little wire or spring to connect the two appropriate pins. I assume this wiring is available on the net. The mono records issued by many labels use an equalization curve different from that used for stereo (RIAA). You'll have to check the net for an explaination. Not doing this properly will have a negative affect on the the audio quality of many mono LPs.
Just a general article.. You really need to do some more homework. Yahoo isn't a great or serious tech site anyway, Go to CNET.com for more info.. They have much better how-to video's and information!
I 1st saw you from the old TechTV days. Keep up the good work. Happy computing EF Cussins
Thanks for the quick tutorial. I've been holding on to some of the old LP's and with no turntable I haven't been able to listen to them for ages. At least now I know there's a method. Just have to get around to it; first got to pick up a turntable...
MOST receivers and amplifiers have a phono preamp built into them so if you are recording from a turntable THROUGH a receiver/amp to your computer, there shouldn't be a problem. The reason for a phono preamp is if you want to connect a turntable DIRECTLY to a computer. BTW, if you have a REALLY CHEAP turntable (if the "needle" costs you about $10 or less to replace), you don't even need the preamp as phono preamps are MAGNETIC CARTRIDGE preamps. Ceramic cartridges don't need a preamp. However, a MAGNETIC cartridge turntable is UNDOUBTEDLY superior for reducing record wear and improving the sound quality coming from the turntable. Also, a FEW magnetic cartridge turntables MAY have a magnetic cartridge phone preamp BUILT-IN, but USUALLY this is NOT the case.
Thanks for this article,,, I have over a thousand 78's, 45's and LP's, and have been told would cost a BUNDLE for equipment to record to Disk or HDD,,, Just saying, THANKS! And d_629_top, J&R.com has an ION ITTUSB turntable, at reasonable cost,,, I was looking at another one there, as I have 78's, but what the hey? Give it a look, fella! Thanks again, Becky! Put me on your mailing list !
I would like to clear up a bit of misinformation previouosly posted. The reason that a phono pre-amp is required for the playback of records is to correct the compensation applied to the signal at recording time. Because the swing of the needle is much more pronounced by base notes than by treble notes, the response curve must be altered in recording so that all frequencies can be recorded in a single groove. A standard (known as the RIAA curve) is used on all vinyl recording. Recordings on tape are almost the direct opposite curve (the NAB curve). Playback amplifiers (be it record or tape) must reverse this compensation to achieve quality sound reproduction.
Soundforge by Sony is a great sound editing program, and allows you to import in almost any format. You can not only chop up those cassette recordings into usable song chunks, but you can also adjust the quality and get rid of pops or background from a low quality recording! It's worth the money if you're serious about archiving your vinyl collection.
I have done this quite a bit, like an earlier poster I favour Magix Audio cleaning. I made a Adobe PDF file article & website guide at: http://www.cassette2cd.co.uk/DIY Please feel free to visit and download my guide. There are pictures and everything....no fashlight, I pulled my PC out onto my desk first.
I use NoteBurner to do this! It can convert all music, including protected music, to plain MP3 in a very quick way.
Digitizing audio seems pretty straight forward. How about digitizing VHS video recording? It may be quite difficult but still I'd want to know how. Thank you so much in advance.
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6 Posted by papaikuhaole on Thu Sep 3, 2009 7:59PM EDT Report Abuse
I love this article. It's easy to follow, straight-forward and humorous to boot. Thank you for the laugh. All too often I've find myself on my knees, with my flashlight in my mouth looking for stuff behind my computer. Thanks for the tip about taking a picture. Now if I can only figure out how to crawl behind to get that picture in the dark caverns behind my computer and under my desk.